Site icon On The Road with Susan

Pine Grove Furnace State Park

An old ironworks, two mountain lakes, and an Appalachian Trail tradition in Cumberland County

At Pine Grove Furnace State Park, an old stone furnace tells the story of Pennsylvania’s
ironmaking days, while Appalachian Trail hikers celebrate their halfway milestone with ice cream. Add
two mountain lakes, a rocky overlook, and the chance to sleep in a former paymaster’s office, and you
have a road trip with plenty to discover.
Pine Grove Furnace State Park caught my attention for two reasons: the old iron furnace and the
Appalachian Trail. Then I learned that one of its lakes was once an iron ore quarry and that hikers
celebrate reaching the area by trying to eat half a gallon of ice cream. The more I learned, the more
this sounded like my kind of Pennsylvania road trip.
As part of the  Pennsylvania State Park Saturday, I’m heading to South Mountain near Gardners in Cumberland County. The 696-acre park sits amid the forests of South Mountain, with enough variety for a few hours on the road or a weekend spent exploring.

Start at the furnace: What was here before the park?

I’d start at the stone furnace because it makes the rest of the park easier to understand. In 1764, three partners established an ironworks along Mountain Creek. The operation used charcoal to fuel the furnace and produced goods such as stoves, fireplace backs, and kettles. During the American Revolution, it also produced artillery shells. The furnace went out of operation in 1895

The old furnace was part of a working community. A clerk’s office, stable, gristmill, and ironmaster’s
mansion are among the buildings that survive. Pennsylvania acquired the ironworks property in 1913,
and the Civilian Conservation Corps later built roads, trails, and other facilities during the 1930s and
early 1940s.

That’s what I like about starting here: once you know what the buildings were used for, you can picture
a community where today’s visitors come to picnic and hike. I’d take time to read the signs and look for
details I might otherwise walk right past.

The Appalachian Trail Museum and the Half-Gallon Challenge

If you’ve been following my plans for a road trip that parallels the Appalachian Trail, Pine Grove Furnace is the kind of stop I want to build into that journey. The trail passes through the park near its midpoint, so you can walk a short stretch and get a feel for it without committing to a long hike.

Appalachian Trail Museum, housed in the former gristmill, tells the story of the trail and the people who built, cared for, and walked it.

Across from the museum is the Pine Grove General Store, where thru-hikers traditionally celebrate reaching the halfway area by attempting to eat half a gallon of ice cream in one sitting. After all those miles, I can understand wanting ice cream. Whether I could finish half a gallon is another question!

Planning a late-fall visit? The museum’s posted 2026 regular hours run through October. Check the Appalachian Trail Museum’s schedule and confirm general store hours before making either one the centerpiece of a November trip. I’d build a late-fall visit around the furnace, lakes, and trails.

Two lakes with two different stories

Fuller Lake began as an iron ore quarry. After mining ended, groundwater filled the quarry, leaving the small lake visitors see today. Laurel Lake served a different purpose: it supplied waterpower to Laurel Forge, where iron from the furnace was worked into wrought iron. Both lakes have swimming beaches, and Laurel Lake offers seasonal boat rentals.

I’d see both if time allows. Fuller Lake fits naturally into a visit to the furnace and historic buildings. At Laurel Lake, I’d leave time to enjoy the water and wooded hills before deciding whether to tackle the climb to Pole Steeple. On a chilly day, a thermos of coffee and a few minutes by the water would suit me just fine.

Pole Steeple: A short hike with a steep climb

The Pole Steeple Trail starts near Laurel Lake and climbs into Michaux State Forest to a quartzite overlook. It’s about three-quarters of a mile each way, but DCNR rates it among its most difficult hikes. There’s a route that avoids the steepest section, though the climb is still a workout and the overlook has a sheer drop.
I’d save this hike for a day when the footing is good and I have plenty of daylight. If I wanted an easier outing, I’d spend more time around the furnace and the lakes. The overlook is a bonus, and I wouldn’t rush past the places I came to see just to fit it in. 

Where to stay overnight

Park campground: DCNR lists 70 tent and trailer sites, generally available from late March to mid-December. Sites have picnic tables and fire rings, and pets are allowed at designated sites for a fee.

Paymaster’s Cabin: The former ironworks paymaster’s office is now a modern rental cabin. If I wanted to make the park’s history part of the overnight stay, this is the first place I’d check. pa.gov

Ironmasters Mansion Hostel: The historic mansion serves as a hostel and a stop for Appalachian Trail hikers. Its regular season runs from April through October; contact the hosteldirectly about off-season arrangements.

How I’d spend a day at Pine Grove Furnace

I’d start in the historic area with the furnace and Fuller Lake, then visit the Appalachian Trail Museum if it’s open. From there, I’d head to Laurel Lake for lunch and decide whether the weather and daylight are right for Pole Steeple. If I stayed overnight, I’d save the hike for the next morning so I could take my time with the history.

For your GPS: Pine Grove Furnace State Park and official visitor information. Check the park page for maps, notices, and reservation links before you leave.

My Final Thoughts

The detail I keep coming back to is Fuller Lake. I could stop there, take a photograph, and drive away without ever realizing I was looking at a former iron ore quarry. Knowing that changes what I see. The furnace, the old farm and industrial buildings, and the two lakes all tell parts of the same story.

Then there’s the Appalachian Trail, which gives the park a story that’s still being written by the people passing through. I’d come for the ironmaking history, stay for a walk by the lake, and, if the general store is open, get a scoop of ice cream. One scoop sounds like plenty to me.

Have you visited Pine Grove Furnace State Park? Tell me what you’d do first: explore the old furnace, climb Pole Steeple, or take on the Half-Gallon Challenge? 

Find more adventures at ontheroadwithsusan.com.

Until next time

Susan

Exit mobile version